1 KUALA LURAH TO TEMBURONG
A number of people have requested full details of the journey from Brunei to Lawas, so the two following articles cover the route. Although it is not very far in distance, there is no certainty that any of the immigration points will be open early in the morning or at Friday prayer time. As for vehicles, all except the lowest sports cars can easily travel from Brunei to Temburong: however, the onward journey to Lawas does still have stretches that can be troublesome in wet weather, for 2wd cars.
On arrival at Kuala Lurah, park anywhere. First go to the left side of the building in the middle of the road to exit Brunei . Try to obtain a Brunei car form in advance (a photocopy is acceptable), and take it to the building on the far right (am) or the furthest Bruneian central building (pm) to have it chopped and the particulars noted. Then walk through to the Malaysian side. The first building on the right is where one hands in the Bruneian car form to have it endorsed on the back. Then cross over to the far side of the road to chop one's passport into Malaysia . Money changers, beer sellers, food stalls and buses are available here. Currency forms must also be completed here. Return to the car and drive carefully for about 43 kms to Limbang. There are two left turns along the way, well sign posted to Bandar Limbang. The first few kilometres have now been paved making a real improvement, but many stretches are marked "Rosak". Whether marked or not, giant holes can appear at any point. There is a large Chinese Temple at km 8, that may warrant a stop. There are stalls selling produce along the route where Bruneian vehicles stop without warning. On driving into Limbang, the road follows the river. The large riverside car park (free) should reopen any day. The immigration building (DERMAGA LIMBANG) is at the far end of the car park. Very often, only 'arrivals' is operating but the duty officer will chop either direction.
Once you have joined the road to Temburong there are two roundabouts - both right turns - follow the signs to the airport. After the airport, the road is very poor in places. There are six rickety old bridges to cross. It is about 14 kms from Limbang to Batang Pandaruan at the end of the road. The vehicle ferry costs $4 or M$8 (subject to variation): pay on board. It operates continuously from about 6 am to about 9.30 pm . There is a separate foot ferry. The one-minute crossing brings you to Kg. Puni.
2 TEMBURONG TO LAWAS
After getting off the ferryboat to arrive in the Temburong District, follow the road as it turns sharply to the right. A few hundred metres later you will see a port-a-cabin and a house in front of a mosque. This house is the Immigration. From there you continue along the road you have just driven, away from the ferry, towards Bangar town. You will pass Bangar on your left to cross the river and will not need to turn off to arrive at your next ferry.
Both of these ferries are your transport across the official borders but just as in Limbang and Puni (Temburong) you don't chop your passport until you arrive in Lawas itself.
About twenty kilometres out of Bangar the road deteriorates significantly. Unsealed, barges stones and even oil drums strategically placed by the local residents! The well-known 'hill' before the border no longer exists, so any vehicle can pass through now. We were amazed by the number of mopeds and motorbikes travelling this route when we did it. I would recommend a 4-wheel drive but a comfy fairly high set car would do just fine.
Eventually you come to a fork in the road very close to the river. Take the left or the right fork for the ferry, depending on the day which ferry is working. It is more expensive at MR10 if memory serves correctly for just as short a distance. From here the road rises steeply and to the left. Suddenly you hit the tarmac again. Yet again you continue until you arrive in Lawas. We followed the sign into the town, then had to ask for directions to immigration. (However we have since discovered that if you go straight ahead you will come out at Immigration on your left.) When you drive into town you will see the market place on the river. Turn right and follow the river a kilometre or so. Immigration looks like a block of flats on your right just before an intersection and the airport on your left.
On your return to the town, the best hotel is on the left, close to the market one block away from the river. It's Chinese-owned with lanterns hanging outside but we can't recall the name.
Lawas we found to be a pleasant town selling the same stuff as Limbang, but much more picturesque and looked after. Trees and blossoming shrubs line the roads and there is a healthy bustle. Loads of cafes sell food and beer. A good change from the usual.
First written in 1999, if something has changed please email copy@jungle-drum.com |
